In 1991, I drove across West Texas alone in a pickup truck with no plates and the VIN ground off. At the time, neither of those things concerned me as much as the gas gauge.
I had been alone for a couple of days and was nearly out of gas. The combination was starting to wear on me. Every sound from the engine was the sound it makes right before it dies. Every pair of headlights behind me was coming for me. Never mind that I was driving a truck that looked like evidence—the gas was the real problem.
It was a moonless night and dark. West Texas dark. No towns that I could see, no lights on the horizon, no indication that anything existed beyond the reach of my headlights. Just the road in front of me and the needle getting closer and closer to empty.
Then a gas station appeared.
It was one of those places you are grateful to see from a distance and immediately sorry you stopped at. Buzzing fluorescent lights over the pumps, complete darkness beyond them and an attendant who looked exactly the way the attendant at such a place was supposed to look. Had this been a movie, I would have complained that it was too obvious.
Unfortunately, I needed gas.
I filled the truck without incident, which somehow did nothing to make the place feel less dangerous. I kept looking beyond the lights, waiting for whatever I had already decided was out there to show itself.
Nothing did.
Once the tank was full, I got back inside the truck and pulled onto the highway, relieved to be moving again and convinced that I had just escaped something.
I had been looking in the wrong direction.
My headlights caught movement. Small shapes scattered across the pavement. Then hairy legs. Then more hairy legs.
Tarantulas.
Hundreds of them inside the reach of my headlights and presumably thousands more beyond it. The entire highway was crawling. I had driven into the middle of a tarantula migration, a thing I did not know existed and would have preferred to learn about in some other way.
They were moving steadily from one side of the road to the other, all of them seemingly aware of where they were going.
I tried not to hit them.
I really did.
I slowed down. I swerved left and then right, looking for some clean line through them, but there was no clean line. Every time I missed one, another disappeared beneath a tire.
Tick-tick-crunch.
There were too many. Pick a direction, kill a spider. I was massacring them while trying to avoid them, turning the wheel back and forth because obviously my good intentions would make the truck narrower.
Tick-tick-crunch.
A few minutes earlier, I had been convinced that I was the vulnerable one—a solitary traveler, nearly out of gas, surrounded by darkness in a truck that would have been difficult to explain to law enforcement.
Now I was safely sealed inside steel and glass, and the only actual danger on the road was me.
The gas station eventually became funny. The tarantulas never did.
I kept driving. Of course I did. I had somewhere to be, and apparently so did they. The difference was that I had the questionable yet unquestioned right of way.
Those spiders deserved safe passage, and my destination took that from them. They were simply trying to get somewhere, just like me.
None of us were turning back.